Trans Siberian on to Moscow

28 September, Listvyanka, Lake Baikal, Russia

Two nights in Listvyanka was perhaps a bit too long. The lake itself is enormous and, this time of the year, with the yellow birch and larch trees in all their autumn glory, the scenery is beautiful. But once you've had a walk along the lake shore, there are only a couple of interesting attractions to fill in the day. Yesterday we took a very long walk, 10km round trip, to visit the local museum, one of only three in the world dedicated to a lake. Some interesting exhibits, but mostly in Russian. There was a very-well designed simulated dive in a deep sea submarine and a small aquarium featuring the fish and seal life of the lake. With more than 20% of the world's non-Polar fresh water, the variety of marine life is astounding. The little fresh water seals look as though they have been pumped up with a bicycle pump. They need a large fat reserve to survive the severe winter when temperatures drop to more than -40C and the ice freezes to more than 1m thick.

We had a major drama last evening as we set off for dinner.  Our passports had not returned from registration. We had been told they would be back by lunch time! After some strenuous remonstrating on our part they finally arrived. We have read that wandering about in Russia without a passport can result in a fine or demand for a bribe. Passport registration is not that unusual these days, most Asian countries require it, but it is usually done on computer as you check-in to a hotel. In Russia it is a real pain! Authorised Registration Officers, usually at the local Post Office, fill in a form that is attached to your passport. Currently, registration is required within 3 days of arrival in Russia and then again if you stay in a different location for more than 3 days. Apparently, these requirements change almost every week.

Sunrise is so late here that it is easy to sleep-in until 8:00am or beyond. We managed to finish breakfast and get going by 10:45 this morning. Being Sunday, the locals from Irkutsk were arriving in droves on the lake front as we sauntered down the interesting side street that leads to our guesthouse. Off the main road, the streets quickly take on a very rural flavour Today, we were greeted by a couple of cows out for a morning munch. Most of the houses are traditional, unpainted wood with decorated window frames, many with late autumn flowers on display. Our search for the mid 19th century Russian church of St Nicholas was eventually successful, but the church was being restored and there was a service in progress so we were greeted with a "nyet" at the door.
Following our rejection, we headed for the "Retro Park" nearby. This is a back yard filled with "wacky sculptures of Soviet-era cars and motor bikes". We took a peek inside and decided "nyet". By then, it was time for lunch. Not having a lot to do seems to result in a lot more eating! Some local pastries that were for all the world like Cornish pasties, but with more meat/fish, did the job.
Final excitement for the day was the Nerpinarium, a great little seal show featuring the lake's nerpa seals. While waiting to enter the show, we were again a big hit with the local school kids who tried out their English and were most amused by the Russian translator on our tablet.
All stocked up with beer, we are settled in for beer o'clock.

Our early impressions of the Russians are mixed. Many in authority, such as Customs and Immigration officers, can be more than a bit cool, but every now and then we score a friendly soul, like the lady Customs Officer who searched our compartment at the border. Very civil and respectful.
Our experiences in Eastern Europe 15 or so years ago left us with the firm view that the women would be the saviours of that fairly distressed part of the world. The same can probably be said of Russia. Women are far more sociable and gregarious. Men are often sour and gruff/rude. It is hard to understand what happens along the way to modify the behaviour of children. Kids here are like kids anywhere, happy, curious and outgoing. Those we have encountered so far have been well behaved, happy little souls. These are small town/ small city kids, so they may not be a representative sample. What is almost guaranteed is that if you enter a shop where there is an older woman behind the counter, the reception will be icy. This seems to apply to locals and foreigners alike. Even using our best Russian doesn't warrant a smile.
An interesting side story on the issue of culture is Russian TV. The small amount we have seen is dominated by shows about the military -a bit of a worry given the current situation in the Ukraine.

29 September, Victory Hotel, Irkutsk

A beautiful day today. The early chill of 2C warmed up to 14C later in the day as we wandered around central Irkutsk. That might not seem warm to many Australians, but in the bright sun it was extremely comfortable with just a light coat.

Irkutsk is the largest city in Siberia with a population of 580,000. The air is clean and the city streets spotless, except for the litter of falling leaves. Originally a Cossack outpost, the city grew during the 18th and 19th centuries as trade with the East increased. Constructed largely of wood, the city has been destroyed by fire several times, the latest in 1879. Today the city is an attractive mix of late 19th century stone and timber buildings, peppered by the inevitable modern high-rises.

Take a turn into any side street in the city centre and you are in another century. Well-maintained or restored timber houses still survive, just one street back from the usual Cartier, Boss and other internationally branded shops. The Victory Hotel is the best accommodation we have had on this trip, with a large room, all the usual facilities, coffee-making, hairdryer, fridge and even a towel warmer!

30 September, Trans-Siberian Train No. 69

We have begun the last and longest stretch of the trip from Beijing to Moscow. As far as we can tell we are the only non-Russians on the train. No problems so far with language and we were just thrilled to find out that at least tonight's meal is FREE. So, sipping a very average French Cab Sav and watching the sun set over the power station on the outskirts of Irkutsk, all is good!
Our day in Irkutsk was spent with the lovely Ksenia, our guide. Ksenia is not an Irkutsk native, but her knowledge of the city and all its special places gave us an understanding of the city that we would never have achieved by ourselves.
Irkutsk is not a very big city, but it has a proud history and many of its great heroes are commemorated around the city.
During Soviet times, many of the old churches were destroyed, but the few that remain give a taste of the grandeur of old Irkutsk. For us, the most interesting feature was the old wooden houses, many of which have been restored.
Siberia has been a place of exile and imprisonment for centuries. From the 1825 Decembrist plotters to the more modern gulags, hundreds of thousands of Russians were moved to Siberia. Making a life here must have seemed almost impossible in the 19th century, but the nobles and, more so, their wives, who made the long trek from St Petersburg to join their husbands, prospered and gave the city much of the art, architecture and culture that survive today.

I October, Train No. 69, Krasnoyarsk Station

Train-time-wise, we are about halfway through our journey from Beijing to Moscow. The sign outside our compartment on the platform of Krasnoyarsk reads 4098 kms to Moscow.
Krasnoyarsk is the first large city we have passed through since Irkutsk. Dreary probably sums the city up. The perspective from the railway line is never the most endearing view of any city, but even given that, Krasnoyarsk is far from being an attractive city. Derelict factories front the tracks for several kilometres on the city's outskirts, row after row of ugly, Soviet-era apartment blocks add to the gloom. Just beyond the main station, an area of old wooden houses rots among burnt-out cars and piles of abandoned industrial refuse. A very unattractive place.

2 October, Train No 69

Trans-Siberian travel is not without its challanges, so five (train) days into our journey from Beijing to Moscow, it is probably time for a few tips.

Most importantly, stay healthy. To do this we wash our hands dozens of times a day with soap and disinfectant hand wash. Using the sink in the toilet on trains for anything more than washing face and hands is just impractical. As an alternative, we pack baby wipes, baby powder and deodorant, for that "all over freshness". Toilets on the trains we have travelled on have been mostly clean, if a little spartan. The Chinese toilets are by far the best and they are cleaned more regularly, but beware of "lock-down" times for toilets. On all trains we have used, Chinese, Mongolian and Russian, the toilets are locked when the train is at a station, or when approaching a major city, where the train may stop for 30 minutes or more. Toilets on the station are always an alternative and are invariably clean. You will need some small denomination currency to use the station toilets, generally the equivalent of 20-30 cents. Squat toilets predominate in China, but there is often one Western toilet in larger stations.
We read a lot of fairly romanticised stories of buying local delicacies on station platforms from charming old babushkas. It might be that it is towards the end of the season, but we haven't seen one babushka, charming or not. Instead, there are often numerous small kiosks selling snacks, chips and drinks. Some exploration inside larger stations or on nearby streets will often pay off in the form of a small local shop, a cafe, or even a supermarket. Even the smallest shops seem to have a microwave, used to heat up food as necessary. Pirozhki, a doughy pie with a range of sweet or savoury fillings, have been successful choices for us, but unless you speak or read some Russian, it is a bit of a lottery. Prices are very reasonable, a good feed in a station cafe with a glass of tea should cost no more than $5. Coffee is not big in rural areas so expect to pay $3-$5 for a cup. Beer, on the other hand, is universally cheap, mostly less than $2 for a 500ml can, even cheaper from a supermarket. Wine is mostly imported and cheaper lines of Australian, French and Italian wines are fairly commonly available for $10-$20. Higher quality wines are extremely expensive and not often avaliable en route.
The Trans-Siberian traveller's staples are instant noodles and soups - which can be made up using the boiling water provided in each carriage, biscuits and tinned fish or meat. Some more adventurous souls also grab a few sausages at the many specialist deli-like shops around stations. We have been very cautious so far on the sausage front, not knowing which need to be cooked and how long they can be kept without refrigeration. Locally baked bread can also be found in shops adjacent to some stations. This is universally good and very cheap, which is a good thing, because it goes stale very quickly and unless you are sharing, much can be wasted.
Train compartments can be made very secure. Luggage compartmernts under the bottom bunks hold even the largest backpacks. Large roll-a-long suitcases may be a little difficult to secure however. Staff in each carriage can lock your compartment for you if you leave the compartment or train. ALWAYS do this! Also be aware that on most trains, staff can open your door even when you have locked it from the inside, and they always seem to choose the most inopportune time to do so!
Power outlets for charging phones, tablets etc are in the compartment hallway, at least in second and third class. On the China-Mongolian leg of our trip, we had a power point in our compartment.
We chose to pay extra for two berth compartments for the whole of our trip. It was a lot more expensive, but we are glad we did. On the Russian trains, we have had full use of a four berth compartment, giving us plenty of space and privacy. Others we have met have not done this and have had some difficult experiences with compartment companions.
Final piece of advice that we can give is to learn the Cyrillic alphabet. It is not as difficult as it may seem, as quite a few letters are the same as in the Roman script. A surprising number of Russian words are similar to English or European words. We have found this far more useful that trying to learn even a small amount of Russian. "Please", "Thank you", and "Two beers", combined with a puzzled look and hand gestures is about all we have needed.

Scenery along the Trans-Siberian can become extremely monotonous, so load up a few movies on your device of choice and pack a couple of good books. If you end up on a train with few or no English speakers, conversation may be limited. Having said that, we had an interesting (we think) conversation with a couple of young guys from a Siberian volleyball team and a more intelligible one with a young German couple last night.

Last, but not least! Before wandering off to explore some small Siberian station environs, check the stopover time on the schedule posted in the carriage. Don't miss the train. It won't wait!
Oh! Just one last, last tip. If you want a beer at the end of a long hard day, buy it at a station stop or nearby shop. It will be one third of the train price. But again, leave plenty of time and don't miss the train.